A Broad With Robb:: 2011

Tuesday, May 10, 2011

The Trip Might Have Taken A Toll On Us - Headed Home

Pauline has bought some jewelry and Robb found a semi-reliable antique shotgun.

See you all soon.

The Little Monk

All Burmese Buddhists become monks and live in a monastery for some period of time. Typically this is done when they are young. Many also return upon the death of a parent, or for periods of reflection. Some remain for life.

This boy is about 12. As with all monks, he takes his begging bowl to the streets and local residents donate rice, money, and some other food.

He showed us the complicated process of wrapping his robe. Truly, one size fits all.

His bowl must have weighed nearly 10 pounds. It was full of cooked rice. On the lid he had even collected some miniature candy bars. Commonly the monks don't touch donated money. The person giving the money puts the cash in a small pot which is also on the lid of the bowl.

The monks do not say thank you for the donations. Buddhists believe that it is their duty to make the donations and that by accepting the gifts, the monk has allowed the giver to do a necessary good deed.

The anti-government riots of a few years ago were started when donations were made to begging monks by those allied with the dictatorship. The monks turned their bowls upside down, thus dumping the donations on the street.

The 5,000 Stupas Of Bagan

The capital of the Burmese empire of 900 years ago was in the central highlands at the city of Bagan. In an area of about 42 sq. km. there are approximately 5,000 Buddhist temples, each with at least one stupa (spire). Nearly all of them are between 700 - 900 years old

The largest ones were built by the kings, and the lesser ones built by what must have been nearly every one else around!

You can still climb the extremely steep steps of some of them, and for the effort gain a spectacular view of history.

Several years ago the military dictators shut off what electricity and plumbing that existed and gave the residents a week to relocate. They were told where to move - a few miles away, and they were ordered to dismantle and take their modest houses with them. Their neighborhoods were shuffled and consequently they lost their neighbors and the tight knit community that, among other things, watched over one another's children. The area to which they were moved is now called "New Bagan."

(Old) Bagan is a true Potemkin Village, set up as a show place for foreigners. Mostly Old Began consists of the few western type hotels .... and at least two private hotels... for "The Generals".

Mr. And Mrs. Indiana Frank

Long Necked Women Of Burma

One of the minority tribes are the Kirin. Centuries ago their women were raped by the Mongol invades of Kubla Khan. To make their women unattractive, and thus to hopefully be ignored by the Monguls, the tribe devised the bizarre idea of stretching their necks.

Rather than individual rings, they use a coil expertly wrapped around the neck. Once the shoulders are pushed down and the neck stretched up enough, the coil is removed and replaced with a longer one.

Eventually this practice became common, and even viewed as attractive. Due to obvious medical problems, the practice is dying out. But we saw several, including some who appeared fairly young.

This woman was weaving a very complicated pattern, with essentially no loom. She simply tied the thread to a pole, sat on the floor, and started weaving.

In Dien - Central Burma

Not far from Inle Lake are the 900 year old Buddhist temples of In Dein. You can walk in or on them as you wish. They are near a small village. We were the only people there.

Our guide led us into several of them, sometimes clapping his hands loudly. He told us that this aroused the snakes (vipers and cobras) which sometimes crawled into the temples to escape the midday sun. Some of the statues of Buddha were in remarkably good condition.

While meandering through this wonder, we came across a local farmer going home. He is carrying his hoe. Despite the poverty and oppression, he was typical of the seemingly happy and very friendly people.

It could be that at least part of his gaze was the common reaction that Pauline's blonde hair engendered. We even had two girls come up and ask to have their picture taken with her. We found out that they had come to see a local temple, and lived in an area where foreigners are not allowed. Our guide explained that our height and skin color were a real oddity to these people. We were told that quite possibly these people had never seen a foreigner!

Inle Lake - Central Burma

This gorgeous, clear lake is still fished by men in handmade, shallow draft boats, using conical nets with wooden frames.

This fisherman is wearing a longee, which is a traditional sarong type dress. Many men still wear them, even in the cities.

This net is laid sideways in the shallow lake, and when the fisherman spots some fish he thrashes the water with a bamboo stick. When the fish flee into the wide mouth of the net, he pulls up his catch.

The boat is often paddled by standing on the bow, on one leg, and holding the paddle in one hand while propelling it with the free foot. It is quite a sight.

Back In Time

We were told that going to Burma was like going back to the 1950's, and when in the big cities this is essentially true. But once in the countryside, many things seem unchanged for centuries.

We've seen carts pulled by animals in some poor countries, but here the ox carts still have wooden wheels, and the animals' yokes are carved from wood, too.

43 Metric Tons Of Gold

Yangon, Myanmar was formerly known as Rangoon, Burma. The oppressive military government changed the name, hoping to gain support from the 131 minority ethnic tribes. The Brits named the area "Burma", because the majority tribe is the Burms.

Ironically, neither the Burms, nor the other tribes seem to like the dictated change in names.

Going to Burma is going back in time. The internet is blocked, most areas are off limits to foreigners, and some (including the new, isolated capital) are even off limits to Burmese (Myanmarians?).

In the heart of Yangon/Rangoon is a massive Buddhist temple, The Shwe Dagon Pagoda. The central spire, known as a chedi or stupa, stands 98 meters high and is coated with 43 metric tons of gold. Atop the traditional umbrella at the peak of the stupa is the world's second largest diamond.

By the way, some Burmese are not above discussing the disliked, dictatorial government. We were even told that some fear that "The Generals" had stolen the diamond!

One reason YouTube is blocked is because a video of the wedding of the head general's daughter was uploaded there. The wedding reportedly cost US$50 million.

Like many temples, Shwe Dagon contains many buildings - 81 in this case. It is beautiful, and while peaceful it is neither sombre nor especially quiet.

If you'd care to see more, here is a brief video showing the locals strolling the wide walkways:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ej7OrdQhCDY&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Public Worship - Chiang Mai, Thailand

This Wat, high on a hill west of Chiang Mai, is not only a popular tourist attraction, but a place where many Thai Buddhists go to pray.

Buddhists are quite a tolerant lot and have no objections to pictures being taken as they worship.

All That Glitters........

Chiang Mai may have more temples per square foot than any other city to which we have been. This one is atop the highest hill, outside of town.

It's location was determined 700+ years ago when an rare white elephant, bearing a Buddhist relic died on this spot.

As you can see, the Northern Thai style is chocked full of statues of The Buddha.

Night Market In The Old City, Chiang Mai, Thailand

All time best market we have ever seen, and our all time favorite city in all of Asia.

Dinner of pad Thai noodles sprouts, peanuts, etc cost 25 Bhat (US$0.85); delicious dessert of mangos on sticky rice with cocoanut milk poured on top cost 35 Bhat (US$1.17). A one hour Thai massage/torture cost 150 Bhat (US$5.00).

We'll be back!

Atypical Shopper At Market, Three Pagodas Pass, Thailand

Typical Market - Three Pagodas Pass, Thailand

One Of The Buildings In The Wat, Across The Mon Bridge - Sangkhaburi, Thailand

Large Wats, such as this one, contain several buildings intended for worship, plus living quarters for the resident monks.

This Wat had been the home of a particularly revered monk. Buddhists believe that after you go through numerous reincarnations you become incorruptible. Feeling that this revered monk had indeed become incorruptible, his body was preserved and is on display.

The Mon Bridg - Sangkhlaburi, Thailand

This was the view from our hotel. This hand built bridge leads to a settlement on a hill which includes a beautiful Buddhist Temple, called a Wat.

During the monsoons the river beneath this bridge rises to the walking surface!

The Bamboo School's Night School

In addition to the Bamboo School, Brother Victor has also established this night school for the Myanmar children who work during the day.

We met one girl, aged 15, who had never been to school. She was learning to write Thai.

Brother Victor introduced us to the class. They all placed their hands in a praying position, held them to their foreheads, and bowed to us.

Robb told them about Abraham Lincoln, and Pauline encouraged them to continue their studies. It was an extraordinary evening.

And You Thought She Never Ran Out Of Energy (She's Not 21 Anymore)

The 100 degree heat withered Pauline while working at the Bamboo School. We planted erosion control shrubbery for the upcoming monsoon season so that, hopefully, the entry road will be passable for the small pick up truck that serves as a school bus.

It seems that she's human after all! I tried to explain to her that in this heat she shouldn't work at her typical, frenzied pace. But did she listen? As she would say, "Oh, well...."

Classrooms: Bamboo School - Sangklaburi, Thailand

These are 3 of the 4 classrooms at the Bamboo School. The mist shrouded mountain behind them is the Myanmar frontier.

This strip of Thai government land has no electricity.

The thatched roofs leaked during the last monsoon season, so Brother Victor had corrugated zinc panels installed over the thatching, and then held down with bamboo poles tied together. It substantially stopped the leaks, but while we were here a storm blew one of the zinc panels off of the roof.

It would seem hectic and loud enough to have 300 kids attending these open aired classrooms, right next to one another - but imagine the noise when the torrential rains of the rainy season come down on the zinc roof during school time!

The Company Town

Here Brother Victor holds a baby as her grandmother (aged 42) and Robb trade customary greetings. Her daughter, who is this baby's mother, has a total of 5 children. The father died last year, of stomach cancer.

The mother had just completed her shift at the rubber processing facility. She was off in the jungle looking for bamboo shoots to supplement her family's diet.

The surrounding huts constitute the housing provided by the processor, so that his workers need not trek back to Myanmar each night. This also allows those families with men or older boys to harvest rubber sap at night

Rubber Processor

Brother Victor showed us around the processing facilities. Because he educates their children (and feeds the poorest kids lunch, as well), he is well known and respected. They simply call him "Brother."

This sap is mixed with acetic acid (vinegar) in molds, to form sheets the size of car mats. These women are cleaning the molds. They earn 85 Thai Bhat per day, which is about $2.85. They also live in a company provided hut.

Brother Victor reminded us that they endure great hardship to leave Myanmar, so they have the opportunity to earn this sparse wage.

Rubber Plantation

The rubber trees take 6 years to grow before they can be tapped for the valuable latex sap. They can then be tapped for 24 years. The workers slice open the bark each night, and allow the white, gooey sap to drip into small pots.

They then harvest the sap before dawn, and take it to the rubber processor. They are paid according to the amount they harvest.

The Founder Of The Bamboo School, With "The King Of Fruits"

This is Mrs. We. She is a Thai citizen, but of the Karen tribe. Her husband is the ambulance driver in Sangklaburi. She gave up her job and used part of her husband's salary to start the Bamboo School.

Mrs. We is a Baptist, having converted from Buddhism. Her husband remains a Buddist. But she told us that she "talks to him about God every day."

In front of her is the famous (infamous) durian fruit. It is known as "the king of fruits and the fruit of kings.". Known for it's offensive odor, it is generally not allowed on buses. One of the Christian Brothers told us "it smells like hell but tastes like heaven."

The species in front of Mrs. We is the golden pillow, and is supposed to be the least odiferous of the three varieties. It's a little mushy, with a large pit and a subtle sweet aftertaste. The stench is noticeable, but not as bad as reputed. We didn't try the stronger varieties.

Mrs. We is one of the sweetest and most generous people we have ever met.

Christian Brother's Bamboo School Near Sangklraburi In Western Thailand

Two hill tribes from Myanmar, the Mon and the Karen, come across the border at Three Pagodas Pass. The work in the sewing shops and rubber factory. Technically they are illegal aliens in Thailand, but as long as they stay close to the border the Thais allow it. But their children have no schools.

The Christian Brothers found this Bamboo School started by a local Thai lady. She was overwhelmed and they agreed to take over and expand the school. The school is nestled right up against the border on Thai government land. The is no electricity, and so the Brothers are building a more substantial school not too far away.

In November of last year the Karen militia and the Myanmar government army had several firefights. As a result the 300 kids stayed at the school or at the teachers' houses for a month. Some of their parents also fled onto Thailand. The only place the school could provide for them to sleep was in the jungle or in the chicken coop. Local Thais provided blankets.

This picture shows one of the classrooms. The music class was helping these Myanmar kids to be absorbed into Thai society by teaching them the Thai language and the national anthem.

Monday, April 25, 2011

Bang Na, Thailand - Easter Evening

We left The Kingdom Of Kampuchea and flew to Bangkok where we were met by Brother Victor Gil of the Christian Brothers Of Lasalle Catholic order. Pauline's high school in Fresno was run by the same order and she is having a reunion with Brother Mark Murphy, one of the brothers from her old school, tomorrow.

Brother Mark lives in Myanmar and our visa applications are pending. We will know in 2 days if our visas are granted. If so, we hope to see Myanmar/Burma with Brother Mark's experienced help.

Brother Victor drove us about 30 minutes north of Bangkok, where the Christian Brothers (founders and former owners of the famous brandy bearing their order's name) have established a 5,000 student school for local children. Brother Victor is about 70, speaks 4 languages, including the incredibly difficult Thai (27 vowels, 70 consonants). He founded the so-called Bamboo School west of Bangkok, on the Myanmar (Burmese) border at the Three Pagodas Pass. The pass was where the Bangkok to Rangoon "Death" Railroad of "Bridge Over The River Kwai" fame was built by the Japanese, during WW II, by forced labor.

Today two local hill tribes are pushed between Thailand and Myanmar and are literally people without a country. The Bamboo School (so named because it has a roof supported by strong bamboo poles, but no walls) is for the children of these tribes We leave with Brother Victor, and a load of milk, for the 6 hour drive, tomorrow at 4:30 a.m.

It may be tough to sleep. Last night while talking to the airlines over the phone, the woman asked, "Where are you?". We were Skyping her from an iPad, so we were on speaker. The noise she heard was a combination of the frogs, odd tropical birds, the ostrich, and something like an iridescent emu! Here is a short clip of those neighbors of ours, which we took while the kids were singing the Thai national anthem early the next morning.

http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_uri=%2F&gl=US#/watch?v=7hxXGyBCv6s

Internet will be problematic for the next 5 days or so, and then it's off to Myanmar....we hope.

Sunday, April 24, 2011

Inside The "Karaoke Church" - Near Siem Reap, Cambodia

When the Jesuits bought this tiny "floating building" it was a karaoke bar. At most it can hold about 70 worshipers.

We visited on Easter Sunday morning, and the choir was practicing hymns for the mass to be held later in the day. As you can see there are no pews or chairs, and the alter and related objects sit on the floor, along with the parishioners. The reflections you see on the walls and ceiling are caused by plastic wrap which covers those surfaces. We were not sure what purpose this served.

They have now obtained a second "building", which is tethered to the first and is used as a pre-school, where the Vietnamese immigrants are taught Khmer, the national language of Cambodia. The church also gives the children scholarships so that when they are ready they can attend school in Siem Reap.

The priest shared with us that there is no pushing of religion. He explained that if any of the villagers wished to be baptized, he had them wait for a period of 3 years, to insure that their choice was voluntary.

Easter Sunday At St. Paul's Church, In The Floating Village - Near Siem Reap, Cambodia

The Jesuits started this church about 6 years ago. More than 90% of Cambodians are Buddhists, but they are very tolerant of other faiths. There is a small Christian Community amongst the Vietnamese immigrants.

Basketball Court In The Floating Village

It's hard to get exercise when you are a kid living in a floating village. On weekends these children paddled themselves to this basketball court, or to the school or the tiny Catholic Church to play with their friends.

Dad And Little Sister Watch Her Big Brother Earn Tips Posing For Photos With His Snake

Tonle Sat Lake, Floating Village- Outside Of Siem Reap, Cambodia

This little boy posed for us with his pet python. He Uses tips from tourists to support his family. His shirtless, emaciated father steered their sampan and his little sister watched.

Floating Village, Tonle Sap - Outside Siem Reap

A few kilometers outside of Siem Reap is Tonle Sap. It is a river that feeds a huge lake of the same name. Water flows out of the lake and down the river until monsoon season, which begins in September. Then the torrential rains force the river to reverse it's flow and the lake fills up.

Living on the lake, in a floating village are Vietnamese illegal imimigrants, who are seeking refuge from the harsh communist dictatorship. If caught, they pay a bribe to the police to remain in Cambodia. Life is so grim under communism that they prefer this harsh life.

Their houseboats are extremely modest, with very tiny, cloth enclosed toilets hanging off the side of each boat. Of course, the sewage goes directly into the lake, where they fish, bathe, and grow floating gardens that are anchored to bundles of sticks driven into the mud.

When the monsoons come and the river reverses to fill tthe lake, the lake is "flushed", and the process begins anew.

We felt awkward taking pictures, but our guide encouraged it. He had grown up in a similar circumstance (although he is not of Vietnamese origin), but learned English at his Buddist Temple. His schooling cost 500 Riel/hour, which is about US$0.12. We gave a dollar to a woman with a baby and a toddler in a beat up Sampan, and she bowed profusely in gratitude.

They have started a shop for souvenirs to generate jobs and money for the community, and they now have a floating 3 room school, and a floating basketball court. The court has netting around it so the ball doesn't get in the water. Some charities are teaching them the basics of running a business, most notably the South Koreans.

1000 Years Old And She's Still Beautiful!

Two Of Our Fellow Tourists at Angkor Wat

Pauline Kissing The Buddha

At one of the ancient temples near Angkor Wat there is a Cambodian tradition: A woman sits inside of the temple on a rock window sill, and poses so that it appears she is nose-to-nose with the statue of The Buddha, which is outside of that window.

Another Beautiful Temple Near Angkor Wat.

Saturday, April 23, 2011

From Angkor Wat Area Of Siem Reap, Kingdom Of Kampuchea (Cambodia)

Siem Reap is famous for the 11th Century temple, Angkor Wat, but also has other, slightly smaller, but equally beautiful temples. We started our adventure at Bayon, the entrance of which is guarded by rows of demons and good spirits (pictured here.)

Friday, April 22, 2011

Enlarge This Picture To See Big Brother

There were "rules" posted in all of the staterooms, including the one in bold font instructing passengers: "Do no propaganda and other illegal activities.".

In Hanoi a 1950's looking public address speaker blared the "news" twice a day. I commented to the young man at the hotel desk that no one seemed to stop and listen. He pointedly made no comment. Our Aussie shipmate befriended a local who eventually admitted to him that no one spoke of political matters, as you never knew who was listening. Facebook is blocked, and even as we drove from Hanoi to Halong Bay (about 3 hours), we saw a government car slowly driving through remote villages with the same sort of antique P.A. speaker - mounted on the roof of the car - delivering the party line.

Pauline wondered how they could bring Big Brother into really remote areas, such as one of the larger limestone formations in Halong Bay, where many locals congregated to sell things to tourist. Then we spotted the ubiquitous P.A. Leaker again, this time mounted into the side of this beautiful natural wonder.

The ride from Hanoi to Halong Bay was grim. The air quality, even in this mostly rural area was the worst we've ever seen anywhere in the world. Many locals wear masks.

Had I been quicker with my camera I'd have taken a sad picture of a woman. She was crouched in a junk pile, wearing a face mask, and the typical conical reed hat, digging for whatever. Above her flew the communist red flag with yellow star.

Yesterday's paper ran a news article that the government may exempt people from paying income tax, if they earn less than US$232/year.

No wonder most of the people we met were somber. It was a fascinating stay, but truthfully we were not sad to leave this "worker's paradise."

We flew 1 1/2 hours to Siem Reap, Cambodia, but it seemed a universe removed from the grimness of Vietnam. The Khmer people are sweet, humorous, and seemingly optimistic, despite the sad history of the killing fields, and more.

We're off to Ankgor Wat. It is expected to be about 32 degrees (90F).

A Perspective On The Size Of The Formations - Halong Bay

I Was Going To Buy These Flip Flops But Feared They May Have Been Knock Offs

From One Of The Limestone Formations Looking Down Into Halong Bay

We climbed to the top of one of these odd geological phenomena and, despite the mist, had a beautiful view. There seem to be hundreds of these sheer clipped formations, which attract people from all over the world. We spent 1 1/2 days on a junk with Aussies, French, Indian, and U.S. travelers.

The food is the best thing about Vietnam, and even on the boat we had delicious meals.